INSIDE LA BONNE VACHE’S FASHIONABLY LATE COCKTAIL PROGRAM

Georgetown’s bustling new brasserie did things a little backwards. La Bonne Vache started service in February with a menu full of French-influenced burgers. Now it’s time for the marbled bar to shine, with a recently unleashed cocktail program that goes heavy on lesser-known vermouths, liqueurs, and fortified wines.

The debut drinks make the most of their ingredients, using low-proof spirits to create variations on classics that are big on flavor without all the alcohol. The booze menu rounds out the vision for the neighborhood eatery, which opened doors while it was still finalizing the liquor license (3265 Prospect Street NW). La Bonne Vache is now running on all cylinders with an array of wines, beers, and liqueurs from all over France and Europe.

“I’m working with a ton of classic cordials, vermouths and dessert wines,” says bar man Ari Wilder. He co-owns the restaurant with his wife, Claire, and another D.C. power couple. That would be chef Rob Aikens — a Stephen Starr protege who led the kitchen at places like Pastis and Ghostburger — and his designer wife, Rachel, who transformed the decades-old home of Booeymonger into the chic new corner cafe.

The choice not to pursue a full liquor program was intentional, Ari Wilder says. For one, the team recognizes the growing trend of customers gravitating toward non-alcoholic and lower-ABV options. And then there’s the practical matter of mixing and delivering cocktails across a cozy space that seats 42.

The menu headliner continues to be a list of well-executed burgers that recently got a stamp of approval from Washington Post food critic Tom Sietsema. A “bourguignonne” variety features red wine-braised short rib, caramelized onions, and smoked bacon, while another loops in truffle brie. Other highlights executed on-site by chef Scheyla Acosta include airy gougères, marinated olives, gorgeous beet and endive salads, a section of crispy baguette sandwiches, and mousse au chocolat.

“We don’t want a cocktail program that’s telling a really long story, because chances are you’re going to be getting your cocktail after your burger,” says Ari Wilder, who’s been stirring drinks in D.C. since the early 2000s.

He currently helps oversee bar programs at Zeppelin (sushi) and Chaplin’s (ramen) in Shaw and Japanese omakase room Kappo in the Palisades, which he also co-owns. At La Bonne Vache, he’s leaning into cocktails that pair well with its laid-back atmosphere. Hours are 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. from Wednesday to Sunday.

“It’s really simple, not super innovative,” says Wilder. “It’s just rethinking Champagne cocktails and things that are classic, palatable, and approachable.”

There’s artistry in developing bold, complex cocktails without relying on staples like gin, vodka, and whiskey to do the heavy lifting. That’s where the variety of cordials, vermouths, and dessert wines come into focus.

To make La Bonne Vache’s riff on the French 75, for example, Wilder makes a botanical lemon zest that emulates the flavors of gin. There’s also the Pomme D’Or, an interpretation of a Calvados appletini. The combination of dry vermouth, Basque apple ice wine, golden falernum, sweet Sauternes wine, and Lillet blanc is bright on the palate and fragrant on the nose.

Diners craving a stiffer drink will find satisfaction with the La Revolution, a Negroni-like sipper featuring sweet vermouth, Carpano Bianco, 9 Di Dante dry vermouth, Lillet rouge, Porto branco 10-year, and orange oil.

One colorful concoction is the purple-hued Fifi, a shaken-and-sour combination of sorrel liqueur, white vermouth, Lillet blanc, and lemon juice. There’s also Ma Cheri, which evokes tropical vibes thanks to a base of coconut and pineapple liqueurs.

In addition to composed drinks, Wilder wants to eventually add a separate vermouth list — curating pours of lesser-known bottles that can be enjoyed over ice or with a simple spritz of soda water.

—Tierney Plumb contributed to this report

2024-05-07T17:10:33Z dg43tfdfdgfd