D.C.’S ‘FIVE-STAR DIVE’ COMMODORE CHANGES HANDS
Commodore, D.C.’s treasured dive since 2016, has two new co-captains at the helm. Previous owner Matt Crofcheck recently handed the keys over to longtime employee Rob Van de Graaff, who tapped fellow industry vet Steve Kim as his new co-owner cohort and executive chef (1636 17th Street NW).
“We’re paying homage to the original — Southern comfort food done well, and a focus on seasonality,” says Van de Graaff, a bartender and general manager at Commodore since 2017.
Van de Graaff and Kim first met as brief coworkers at Capitol Hill whiskey bar Barrel in 2016. Graaff left for Commodore, while Kim went on to cook for James Beard Award-winning chef Kwame Onwuachi at Philly Wing Fry and now-closed Kith and Kin. Kim most recently led the kitchen at Todd Thrasher’s Tiki TNT on the Wharf.
Kim unleashed Commodore’s biggest brunch menu yet on Saturday, April 27, quickly followed by a dinnertime refresh on Wednesday, May 1.
Tap lines are devoted to nine rotating beers — and one espresso martini on draft. “It’s a game changer for speed. Once one goes out, six others want it,” says Van de Graaff.
His fast-pouring recipe includes cold brew, chicory liqueur, chocolate bitters, and chile-forward amaro for a subtle spice. Other bar edits include adding frozen cocktails to the mix to help customers beat the heat across its 45-seat patio this summer. The team also purchased a new snow cone machine to offer icy treats adorned with booze (or not).
Kim contributes fine dining techniques and Asian elements across the menu like miso butter, gochujang, Kewpie mayo, and ube that pay homage to his Korean background.
New brunch drops under his watch include a vibrant French toast topped with ube whipped cream, mint, fresh fruit, and ube-maple syrup. “You expect it to be sweet but it’s nice and light,” says Kim. The hangover-friendly Carl’s Sausage Fest platter features Berkshire pork sausage, confit garlic fried egg, chipotle mayo potatoes, and sourdough or rye with Guinness mustard.
The original Commodore closed at the corner of 11th and P Streets NW in late 2019, which is now home to Little Gay Pub. Commodore, lovingly nicknamed a “five-star dive bar,” continued to maintain a devoted neighborhood following upon resurfacing in Dupont in 2021.
To appease its diehard regulars, who show up anywhere from a few to seven days a week, some items aren’t going anywhere. That includes its wings, fried chicken meal deal, and top-selling smash burgers. The untouched Shlogan — still named after Commodore’s original placement between Logan Circle and Shaw — features two Roseda Farm patties, white American cheese, bacon bits, and honey mustard on brioche.
The old Commodore wasn’t big on vegetarian options; its previous chef finally caved and put an “Alright Already” meatless mushroom burger on the menu. This time around, sub-ins include gluten-free buns, vegan cheese, and Impossible patties. A sauteed garlic asparagus starter that screams spring loops in Parmesan, gremolata, adobo kale chips, and pickled fresno, while Calabrian honey-flanked Brussels sprouts come with creme fraiche.
The expanded dinner menu also introduces an array of handhelds. One piles pesto, bacon, burrata, heirloom tomato, and arugula on sundried tomato-and-rosemary focaccia, while the El Diablo features roasted herb turkey, prosciutto, mozzarella, lemon pepper arugula, and fiery aioli.
Weekly programming now includes industry Mondays with an all-night “prix fixe” menu ($21.50) and drink discounts like Malort-and-beer combos that pay homage to Van de Graaff’s Chicago roots. He claims Commodore is in the running for the most Malort sales around the city (fellow dive Ivy & Coney is up there, too). There’s also trivia Tuesdays at 7 p.m. and debut drag bingo on the first Wednesday of each month. Commodore also partners with DC United and shows soccer games with sound alongside Heineken specials.
Weekday hours start at 4 p.m. and noon on weekends, with service until as late as 1 a.m.
